Connemara Trip Report Easter 2024

Trip Report by John L

Trip Participants: Vicky W, Kyle S, Lisa D-K, Rónán D-K, John L, Aimee S, Owen L, Callum Y, Rob B, Sarah B, Manfei Y, Michael B, Alistair M and Cillian B

29th March – 1st April 2024

Our Easter trip was based in the Ben Lettery Hostel which was a great base from which to explore the Twelve Bens.

Most participants arrived around late Friday afternoon and Vicky and Rónán even had time to squeeze in a run to the top of Ben Lettery and back.

View from Ben Lettery on Friday Evening. Photo Credit: Rónán

That evening, Lisa’s dinner of bacon and mushroom pasta was much enjoyed, and those who didn’t help Lisa with cooking it had plenty of dishes to wash afterwards. We then played 6nimmt which Kyle won.

The weather forecast for the weekend was very changeable with the general view that the Norwegian forecast seemed to tell us what we most wanted to hear, closely followed by Met Eireann.

One group (Aimee, Sarah, Owen, Cillian, Alastair and John) decided to climb Ben Breen via Cloud Rake whilst Vicky, Lisa, Manfei, Kyle, Rónán and Michael decided to try the more technical Ragged Ridge (Diff/V Diff) on Derryclare.

View up to Ragged Ridge, Michael on the Ridge, Rob & Manfei on the Ridge. Photo Credits: Kyle & Rob

Lake on Top of Derryclare. Photo Credit: Rónán

Cloud Rake was a diagonal ramp that ran underneath the North Face of Ben Breen. From a distance an uncomplicated scramble running through complex cliffs looked improbable but once we got to the start the scrambling was straightforward, if a little loose, and finished near the summit. The threatened rain never appeared, and the views were about as good as they could be with endless summits, lakes and of course the Atlantic Ocean (next land America) as a backdrop.

The group ascending cloud rake. Photo Credit: Owen

All returned to the Hostel safe and sound where after dinner we played 6nimmt and Kyle won…again. We then moved on to telestrations where we learned that a thick black line is not two bears facing a black brick.

On paper, Sunday had a slightly better forecast than Saturday. Two teams (Callum, Cillian and Rob; Owen, Alastair and John) decided to have go at Carrot Ridge; whilst Vicky, Lisa & Kyle tackled the Glencoaghan Horseshoe which involved 15k of distance with over 1700 meters of climbing (and descending). As if that wasn’t enough, Rónán planned to run it. Our horsehoe completioners battled scree and scramble with our walkers seeing the frequent welcome mark of a Rónán shaped mudclaw. Aimee, Sarah, Manfei and Michael planned on a more leisurely day exploring the best bits of the horseshoe.

Glencoaghan Horsehoe appreciation from Derryclare. Photo Credit: Rob

Carrot Ridge did not disappoint. The rock was compact with secure juggy holds most of the way up which balanced the somewhat spaced protection on some of the pitches - especially Callum’s first pitch which had almost no protection anywhere. Long rocky ridges as good as this are a rarity in Ireland and it was a real treat to climb it. Both teams got off the ridge just before the rain and wind started and despite the harrowing (for those with old knees) steep scree/bog/scheugh descent the day was a top quality and memorable mountaineering adventure.

John on Carrot Ridge. Photo Credit: Owen

Once back at the Hostel, dinner was Vicky’s Sausages, Potatoes and Vegetables which went down a treat. We then sang Happy Birthday to the cook and Kyle presented her with his carefully baked Victoria Sponge birthday cake-complete with digital i-phone candle.

To prevent Kyle getting a hat trick of 6nimmt wins, we played Codenames instead in the ‘comfy room’ after tea.

To have two days of dry clear weather in March in Connemara is a rare privilege and there is no doubt that Belfast Climbing Club made the very most of it, forging happy memories that will last a lifetime. After all, quality routes enjoyed with good companions is what climbing is all about.

All on the weekend would like to extend thanks to Vicky for all the organizing, allowing the weekend to work as well as it did, the chefs for their meals, and the drivers who brought us there and back!

The Group outside Ben Lettery Hostel. Photo Credit: Callum

Costa Blanca Trip Report 2024

Trip Report - Costa Blanca Sport Climbing (yet also somehow a lot of trad climbing) Trip

By Josh T. Also contributions from Callum Y and Ashley L.

For me the much anticipated Costa Blanca trip started with an extremely cramped, extremely early run to the airport on Saturday with Sevan, Callum, Owen and Paul (who thought a 4 am start was a good idea again…?). Nevertheless, spirits were high and after arriving in sunny Alicante we jumped in “the doctor” with Callum at the wheel. We quickly dumped bags at the Orange House and headed straight out to Culo de Rino at Sella. Memories of that afternoon get hazy as sleep deprivation kicked in, but we all got our eye in on some “easy” leads (some feeling slightly desperate with the polish…). Callum and I also successfully top-roped Vino d’Oporto, 6c (ably led by Kyle of course), reassuring us the trip wouldn’t be a complete write off…

Right: The first of many new tinder photos for Peter on the belay of Marión, 5a. Left: Kyle showboating while coming around the lip of the overhang on Cardo Borriquero Ex, 6c+. Photo Credit Callum Y & Michael B

On Sunday, feeling far better rested, we all headed back for a full day at Sella. After a quick warm up Callum and I got stuck into Cuidado Con Mi Sombrero, 6a+ (originally thought it was a 6b…to become a running theme of the trip), each managing to lead it clean after some practice (and Callum taking his first outdoor lead fall!). I then went off to belay Kyle on Cardo Borriquero Ex, 6c+, taking an intimidating looking line under a large roof (with only a small amount of showboating from Kyle coming round the lip). Then it was time for me to try hard on the excellent La Cosa, 7a (or 6c+...depending on which guidebook you choose to believe), getting it clean after some crucial beta from Kyle. Other highlights of the day were Ashley and Conor both getting their first outdoor leads and Callum managing to find one of the few “trad” multipitch routes at the crag (Marión, 5a) and quickly get it ticked with Peter as the sun was setting. 

Left: The first of many ridges for Paul and Owen at Toix ; Middle: Sevan chilling on Amor Bruja.; Right: The race up the pillar at Sax. Photo Credits: Owen L, Callum Y and Kyle S

Monday saw the group splitting up, with one team heading off to Sierra de Toix for either adventurous ridge scrambling or more chilled single pitching. I joined the Sax multi-pitching crew, and after arriving at the crag (with only a couple of minor navigation errors in the doctor) Paul K and I set our sights on climbing the prominent tower at the far end of the crag up the excellent Carrasco, 5a. After two pitches of thoroughly enjoyable and well equipped climbing (despite Rockfax’s advice to bring nuts), plus one rope-stretching abseil, Paul and I opted to continue our type 1 fun afternoon with Blanes, 4c (basically just as hard as Carrasco as far as we could tell!). Peter and Michael were on a similar wavelength, starting with Blanes (with Michael getting his first multipitch lead in on P2!) and finishing up Carrasco. Meanwhile, Vicky and Kyle had made it up Amor Brujo, 6a+, with only minor communication issues on the intimidating second pitch (“SLACK!!!”). Callum and Sevan promptly followed, with Callum nobly leading the apparently harder 1st pitch leaving Sevan to finish the route with “the scariest lead of my life”. Of course, Kyle decided to finish the day with a monster two pitch 7a+ (Quirofano de la Meurte) done in one rope length on his handy 80m single. However, a lack of volunteers to second meant a definitely-not-sketchy single-mallion abseil became necessary to retrieve gear….

Left: Conor keeping his cool . Right: Owen and Vicky getting simultaneously stuck on Malvinas (6b+) and Gibralter (6b+). while Conor cruises Irlande del Norte (6a+). Photo Credits: Michael B

Tuesday rolled around with the latest incarnation of Gold Team setting off early for the big objective of Espolón Central, 4c, on Puig Campana, sure to be back in plenty of time for beers in Finestrat...The rest of the group set off (some time later) for Guadalest. After a quick warm up I resolved to spend most of the day falling off Territorios Ocupados, 7a (or 6c, thank you again Costa Blanca Climbs) with patient belaying from Michael, until Kyle again found the crucial beta that let me finally lead the route. Meanwhile, the rest of the group took advantage of some of the more impressive routes on offer, with multiple ascents of Irlanda del Norte, 6a+ (had to be done!), Gibraltar, 6b, and Marina Baixa, 6b (including the awkward but entertaining cave at the end of P1). Michael and I then ended the day each leading P1 of the fantastic Erotika, 6a, as the sun began to set, finishing up in time to meet the rest of the team for a quick beer in the picturesque town before heading back to the hostel. Night was drawing in on the drive back, and as we passed Puig Campana we couldn’t help but notice headlamps flashing on the face…surely the other team couldn’t still be on the route?

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Gold team guide to Puig Campana

Team members:

Callum Young - thinks trad season begins in January

Seven Houston - dislikes Craigavon

Peter Adamson - secret YouTube millionaire

Paul Kelly - word based board game extraordinaire

The night before:

The route, approach and descent was analysed, 9 minute drive to the car park from the hostel and a 1hr hike to the base. We had heard the descent could be treacherous in parts, although the addition of a via ferrata style cable covering the traverse section had improved things massively. We note that sunrise in Finestrat is 07:45 and decide that a leaving time of 07:00 is appropriate. Sevan scrolls through his 237 preset alarms to find the perfect wake up time and we all head to bed for an early night.

Day of the climb

06:00 - Paul, Sevan and I are up early, ready to seize the day.

06:55 - Peter tactically arises 5 minutes before departure time.

07:05 - Gold team piles into The Doctor*, which immediately alerts us we are about to run out of fuel and screams its usual warning that the smart key cannot be detected despite being directly on top of the sensor.

07:15 - Arrive at carpark, in the distance we can see the torches of a team already at the base, “Wow they’re keen, I bet they got up as early as possible to make sure nobody holds them up”.

08:00 - 15 minutes from the base, Sevan has a code brown and immediately scurries off to resolve the issue.

08:20 - Arrive at base. We discover that the group we saw from the carpark was actually a 3 and they were still on P1. We decided we should try and pass them after P4 where there is a short 10m pitch on easy terrain.

08:45 - Group ahead starts to lead P2 so Peter kicks off P1 with Paul. Sevan and I go up after.

11:00 - 4 pitches down we realise its actually quite awkward to overtake people as two pairs. Peter has a chat with the first team who are all sound and open to an overtake, but we’re not really sure how to do it as they had already started the next pitch by the time all 4 of us were on the easy terrain of P5. We decide the current pace is probably fine and tell ourselves we’ll try another overtake at the P9 lunch ledge if time is looking short.

13:00 - The sun is shining and the climbing is great, the views and exposure continue to get better.

13:45 - I watch from the top of P7 as Sevan wrestles with an overcammed Black Diamond C4 for a good 10 minutes in an attempt to start his trad rack, but is unsuccessful.

15:00 - All of Gold team is now on the lunch ledge, but similarly to last time the first team had already started the next pitch so we ended up remaining behind them. At this stage we realised we would likely be walking out in the dark.

“We’ll probably get off the scree slope before we’d need the head torches, right?”

15:15 - Progress grinds to a halt. The team in front had some route finding issues on P10 and by the time Sevan and I were able to leave the lunch ledge we had spent almost 2hrs there. During this time we discuss our favourite films, the strangest places we’ve visited and how glad we all were that Sevan made his bowel movement before we got on the wall.

“Ok so we won’t be off the scree slope before dark but at least we’ll get the via ferrata done with the last bit of light, right??"

17:30 - I top P10 to find Peter and Paul along with two members of the first team still there, apparently their original leader for the pitch backed off so they did a swap.

“Alright so this isn’t great but SURELY we’ll finish climbing before we’re out of light, right???”

18:30 - I get started on P11. Thank God I charged that head torch.

18:45 - Sundown, a glorious sunset and great company means morale remains high.

19:15 - Head torches officially come out, this sends Sevan into a psych induced mania that lasts the rest of the night “This is the best day ever”. First team seemed to have picked up the pace quite a bit here despite the pitches being long.

20:20 - After leading the last 2 pitches in the dark all of Gold team tops out.

20:25 - Started on the via ferrata, the first team stuck around near the top to make route finding easier for us which was a nice gesture and very much appreciated.

20:45 - 20 minutes into the via ferrata Sevan asks if we’re allowed to lean on the metal cable or if that’s considered cheating…

21:30 - Arrive at scree slope, Peter: “That via ferrata was terrible I never thought I’d be so glad to get on scree”

21:31 - 60 seconds later the reality of walking downhill through scree in the dark hits Peter “Maybe we all fell to our deaths on that climb and this scree is just Hell”

21:40 - Peter: “I have invented a new sport called screeing and decided this isn’t so bad”

21:45 - We are all a bit dehydrated at this point, I watch Paul pull out a bottle of lemon Aquarius isotonic drink with a few sips left in it and have never been more jealous in my life.

22:30 - Gold team gets back to the car.

22:40 - Arrived back at The Orange House, special shout out to Vicky and Kyle who graciously donated their dinner for the night to us. Also a shoutout to Peter who made the worlds best pasta by accidentally dumping half a salt shaker into in while boiling.

22:50 - Sevan does everyones dishes in a desperate attempt to burn off some of his psyche induced energy to no avail.

11:00 - Bedtime

Best day of the trip?

Learnings

- Read the signs early when there’s a notable speed contrast between groups and act fast, especially when they’re cooperative. Really we should have made a concrete plan with the first group to overtake after P4 but our lack of urgency cost us in the end.

- Gold team rules!

*Our weird Italian branded Chinese rental car was a DR 4.0, lovingly dubbed The Doctor

Left: Paul K, Middle: The crew about to start, Right: Callum in despair. Photo Credits: Callum Y & Sevan H

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It was an early start for me on Wednesday as I joined the second group to tackle Espolón Central on Puig Campana. Taking the lesson from the previous days’ escapades we left as early as possible to ensure we were first on the wall, thrashing up the ascent path to arrive at the base by 8 am without another soul in sight. From there Paul G and Owen graciously let Kyle and I set off first, assuming Kyle would be driving us up the wall in record time. As it turned out my more “steady” (read: slow) style almost exactly cancelled out Kyle’s “enthusiastic” (read: unprotected) approach as we swung leads, and our two teams remained neck and neck up most of the route….Nevertheless we all made it up with minimum fuss and in good time (“you can finish that sandwich while you belay can’t you?”). A particular highlight for me was the beautifully airy pitch 6 (which Paul and Owen skipped, opting for a gully scramble instead?!), while we all agreed the descent down a slightly sketchy via ferrata and too-long scree slope could absolutely do one. Upon making it back to the car, Kyle and I smugly noted the time (4:30) and graciously decided not to rub it in Gold Team’s faces (at least not immediately…) and headed off for a cold beer in Finestrat.

Paul topping out and the Not Gold Team starting in the cold cloudy morning. Photo Credits: Owen L

Too much posing in Gandia to describe. Photo Credits: Peter A and Callum Y

On Thursday morning it was time to say goodbye to Michael who was off to meet friends in Granada (and mostly climb indoors as it turned out). As heartbroken as we all were, the promise of Tania arriving that afternoon kept our spirits high enough to get out climbing, with the main contingent off to Gandía while Vicky, Kyle, Paul G and Owen headed to Sierra de Toix to sample the adventurous routes of Magical Mystery Tour, 5a, and Parle, 6a+. The day at Gandía got off to a good start with most warming up on some of the easier routes to the left hand end of Sector Hidraulics, including multiple ascents of the hilarious but short lived tube of Patxi Saez, 5a. Meanwhile I convinced Paul K to join me in trying hard on Assassí de vampiros, 7a (a proper one this time, maybe even 7a+ according to some locals!). However, after some valiant attempts and a decent amount of air time we both admitted defeat and went down to join the rest of the gang in Sector Fundicio. Here Callum had been diligently working the burly Amarrada al pilló, 6b+, finally getting it clean at the end of the day. There were also multiple ascents of the less steep but still strenuous El Ser, 5, and Bombero Gorilero, 6a, by Peter, Sevan and Tania.

Left: The ascent of Parle. Right: Sevan posing on Magical Mystery Tour (on top rope….). Photo Credits: Peter A

Friday saw a return to Sierra de Toix for most of us, while Vicky, Kyle, Owen and Paul G set off on the exciting but logistically challenging El Realet. Upon arrival Conor and I quickly made a beeline to the start of Cilber, 5c, to make a start on the Toix Ridge. Meanwhile Mike, Ashley and Tania headed off for some relaxed single pitching and Peter, Paul, Sevan and Callum set off to take their turn on Magical Mystery Tour, 5a and Parle, 6a+ (sure to finish in the daylight this time, right?). Conor and I completed the ridge (and Conor’s first multipitch experience!) in decent time despite some faff on the narrow section and met back up with Mike, Ashley and Tania. As the sun began to set we let Gold Team know we were finishing up, only to discover they were in fact still on the route (making the most of their investment in headtorches I suppose?) so we left them to it, piling into Tania’s rented mini for a slightly cramped trip back to the hostel.

Saturday, sadly, brought our last day of climbing for the trip. After a small amount of back and forth, we eventually split into three groups, with Owen, Paul G and Ashley heading off the Peñón (only to be thwarted by the permit system!), another group heading to Marín, and Kyle, Vicky, Tania and I aiming to go and try hard at Forada. Unfortunately, a navigational mishap sent the Forada crew up a very steep (but thankfully paved) mountain road, only to find we were in completely the wrong place…Upon realising that correcting the error would take too long we bailed to Marín to join the others. Upon arrival we found Sevan accidentally completing his hardest lead of the trip (El Vuela de Abuelo, 6b) thanks to the “encouragement” of Mike (“it’s a 5 something Sevan”) while Paul K, Callum, Peter and Conor tackled a selection of the more adventurous multipitches on offer.

On Sunday, following a slightly frantic clear out of the fridge at the hostel, it was finally time to say goodbye to Costa Blanca and its sun-drenched limestone. Despite the temptation to cancel our return flights we all made it back to the airport and then it was back to reality! Of course the only thing to do after such a great trip is to start planning the next one….I’m sure we’ll be back!

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Unsure what crag to go to - Read Ashley’s poetic account of each crag including accounts of many hiccups!:

Sella: While we were still weary from the early flight, we were determined to get some climbing in on the first day! It was Ashley's first outdoor climbing experience, and she found herself inadvertently starting to lead a 6A route(supposed to be a 4!). Despite that hiccup, Sella proved to be an excellent spot for new climbers, offering a huge variety of routes and solid bolting. The rock isn’t too sharp, although there is a bit of polish in some places. 

 Our first day at Sierra de Toix started out with a bit of a hiccup, we took a wrong turn but found the most specular viewpoint. The crag at Sierra de Toix was absolutely baking in the winter sun, water sparkling down below, with houses jutting out of the side of the cliffs. Black wheatear and Sardinian warblers chirped away while we ate our lunch. Toix was a perfect place to achieve a large number of lower-grade climbs in a quick succession, as routes were spaced very close to one another. However, first bolts were often placed 4+ metres above the belay point, proving to be unnerving at the start. La cagona, or ‘the pooper’ in English, was a fun but polished route that had one big, reach-y move. 

 The crag at Guadalest is home to the infamous routes of the Territorios Ocupados. As you would expect, there was a queue to climb Irlanda del Norte, a very pumpy route that caused quite a bit of rock fall. After quite a few challenging routes, we wandered into the town of Guadalest. We walked along cobbled streets opening to a massive reservoir, with oddly aquamarine water. We stopped in a small café for some crisp beer to soothe our sore muscles.

 Echo Valley had an exciting scramble up to the crag. It was the most peaceful of crags, little sound carried in the valley, contrary to its name. 

 Paul, Owen, and Ashley tried to make their way up the Peñon, however they were turned away as all of the tickets for the day had been claimed. Not wanting to risk the 600 euro fine, they decided to head to try a multi-pitch at Mascarat. After an easy 20 metre abseil off of a bridge, they started their climb from a small ledge above a gorge. Crag martins were flying above and below us as curious hikers took photos of us unexpected climbers. Throughout the course of our multi-pitch route, the silence was punctured by screams of adrenaline seekers swinging off a 100m bridge. While the Boulder Terminar was intended to be 6 pitches, the first three pitches were quite challenging with a slabby transverse and limited bolting. After 3 pitches the group decided to scramble down to the road to make sure we could make it to Serena’s for one last big dinner.

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The New Committee is in

Congratulations to our new committee! This has to be the biggest I've seen the committee so far! Probably due to Vicky's brilliant idea to have multiple people able to do a single committee roles!

President - Mike McCracken
Secretary - Eva Grew
Treasurer - Owen L
Clothing Secretary - Peter Reid
Cottage Secretary - Peter Adamson
Membership Secretary (Senior) - Owen L
Membership Secretary - Steve Grew
Meets Secretary (Senior) - Vicky Ward
Meets Secretary - John Lyster
Social Secretary (Senior) - Mags Oleszek
Social Secretary - Tania Logan
Webmaster - Jamie Roberts
Ordinary member - Aimee Smith
Ordinary member - Josh Taujanskas
Ordinary member - Kyle Stewart
Ordinary member - Rob Broome
Ordinary member - Tony Holdsworth

Here's to another great year for the BCC!!!

Club times switching around!

Simple enough! We will now be hosting our Ozone sessions on Tuesdays from 1900 and at Boulder world on Thursdays from 1900 instead of the other way around!

Happy climbing!!!

Gola Trip Report 2023

By Vicky Ward 

Header Photo Credit: Callum

Trip Participants: Chris Craig, Vicky Ward, Kyle Stewart, Lisa Davison-Kernan, Paul Kelly, Peter Adamson, Josh Taujanskas, Callum Young, Mike McCracken, Rob Broome and Paul Grattage

The club’s now near annual pilgrimage to Gola Island just off the coast of Donegal is always a highly anticipated trip.  With its gorgeous pink granite, beautiful scenery and general lack of people it’s always a much needed mental reset.  However, this time the weather did not so much play ball. This was a triple dropper cloud forecast.  Nevertheless with an “ok” weather forecast due on the first full day of the trip a group of the keener adventurers (or those with nothing better to do) decided to head off anyways.  

Our party arrived in batches on Wednesday 12th with varying success in avoiding planned traffic jams - 1 participant even managed to squeeze in a mini-mountain race on the way.  Those that arrived early managed to get in a successful afternoon of cragging at the inland crag ticking off such routes as Days of Wine & Roses (E1 5b), Weathered Window (VS 4b) and Corner Boy (HS 4b) with one of our party also successfully ticking of their first trad lead on Legislator (D).  Climbing occurred before and after dinner. With the daylight beginning to come to an end Chris treated us all to a fire complete with professionally made dry stone walls.

Photo Credit: Callum

We woke up on the second day with a tiny bit more fear of our holiday coming to a premature end - all night we had heard the heavy rain on our tents - but miraculously we woke up to dry grass but more importantly dry rocks (for safety) and blue skies (for photos). With this in mind we all hurried our breakfast in order to make the most of the weather window but only after taking an appropriate amount of time to admire Paul K’s very heavy coolbox which was genuinely keeping his full-fat milk fridge cold. No UHT or milk powder for Paul K.  

Josh on Pride of Gola. Photo Credit: Callum

The main goal for most of our party was to head to Gripple wall and conquer the classics of the Pride of Gola (S 4a) and Maid of Gola (HS 4b). These were ticked off efficiently and promptly which allowed the entire group to head off and congregate at main crag.  At some stage Chris left the island.  Utilising the rather “bold” abseil set up by Peter and Paul K as a group we climbed Run of the Arrow (VS 4b), Bull Root (HVS 5a), Snow Desert (HS 4b) and Kyle did some pumpy E4 (he didn’t log it on UKC so it wasn’t stalkable for this trip report).

Kyle on some E4. Photo Credit: Peter

While we were congratulating ourselves and Gola on its fine weather and the quantity of climbing done a sight was seen on the horizon - it was a catamaran skipping across the waves into the bay.  Half an hour later a whatsapp message was received which announced the arrival of Paul G to the island complete with two kayaks and a heap of firewood.  Mike and Callum headed back to the camp to meet Paul G in order to take him off for some evening climbing on Easter Crag.

Paul contemplating the bold step round to Run of the Arrow. Photo Credit: Peter

With everybody’s arms tired we all headed back to camp for an evening meal.  However, the infamous Gola midges decided to join the party.  As these party crashers arrived we all departed the central campsite to go kayaking in the bay (Paul G & Kyle), fetch water (Lisa & Vicky) or make FIRE (the rest).

Unfortunately the day before Chris had given us the ominous news that Sabba (the ferryman) had a wedding on Friday evening and thus had every intention of being out of action on Friday afternoon through to late Saturday.  As a group we therefore had to make the bold decision between:

1. Leaving Gola 2 days earlier than planned - a lot of faff for 48 hours only!

2. Staying on Gola and potentially being trapped in a triple dropper weather forecast in a tent with no means of escape

With sadness, we did decide on Option A - we had had such an amazingly fantastic 2 days.  This trip to Gola was very short but very sweet.  We got possibly the only 2 dry days in July. That was also possibly the fastest ferry trip ever as Sabba gunned it back to the mainland to get back to his pre-wedding pint.  

Photo Credit: Paul

Wales Easter Trip Report 2023

By Vicky Ward

Trip Participants: Rob, Conor, Peter, Paul, Owen, Lisa, Tony, Kyle and Vicky 

Day 1

Booking a boat at 7am always seems like a good idea at the time – a WHOLE day climbing at Gogarth?  Sounds great.

However, the issue with a 7am boat is the 3-4am start. Reality not so great.

Nevertheless we all managed to pull ourselves out of bed and our drivers heroically battled through a caffeine infected haze to Dublin and on to Holyhead. At Holyhead we split into our two groups: those heading off to the Gogarth cliffs and those sticking to the closer Holyhead Mountain.

The Holyhead mountain group enjoyed a range of single pitches on clean rock while Vicky got stuck in the Elephant’s Arse.

A recurrent theme of this trip was the joy of the traverse.  Climbing is generally assumed to be an upward sport but on this trip we defied to defy gravity and instead decided to explore movement within the horizontal plane.  A traverse a day keeps the doctor away after all.  So with this in mind Kyle, Lisa went off to do the classic Dream of white horses (HVS).  After many false starts they abseiled down to start their mainly across ascent in the glorious atmosphere of Gogarth. 

As the Holyhead Mountain people got back to the cars first they did some quick maths and reckoned that the gaining of one person in their car equated to 3-4 (maybe 5?) extra trad bags in the other car. 

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 9.30PM.  It was a long day.

Lisa on Dream of White Horses at Gogarth

Day 2

After a bit of a well deserved lie in we decided to head to Tremadog for the day.  Also easily the most mispronounced welsh name from our group. 

The majority of the group attempted to climb at the heaving Craig Bwlch y Moch. Kyle/Tony did a multipitch weaving its way through maybe a VS, maybe an E2, who knows?  Owen/Peter/Rob/Conor/Paul did some climbing somewhere (Oberon?).  Meanwhile Vicky/Lisa headed off to do the route “Poor Man’s Peuterey” in order to achieve Lisa’s health goals of a traverse a day. 

Having met back up at the café for pasties and coffees we all heading to the delightful single pitch crag of Craig Pant Ifan which felt a bit of a hidden gem (despite the 15minute steep steep steep approach).

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 9.45PM.  It was a long day.

Lisa on Spiral Staircase at Dinas Cromlech

Day 3

It seemed like an enthusiastic idea to go to Dinas Cromlech (beside Pen y Pass) on Easter Saturday but we are ambitious.  After a few trips up and down the pass we finally completely legitimately parked (albeit bay rather than parallel) within the lines.  As we observed throughout the day from our position high on the crag, other parkers started to follow our efficient lead – TREND SETTERS.

We paired off into our climbing pairs with Kyle/Vicky tackling Left Wall (E2)/Sabre Cut (VS); Owen/Tony conquering Cemetery Gates (E1)/Noah’s Warning (VS); and Paul/Peter weaving up Dives (VS).  Meanwhile, the remaining trio, Lia/Rob/Conor sauntered across Spiral Staircase (Vdiff) as they had to go sideways for Lisa’s health after all.

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 8.00PM.  It was a medium-long day.

Day 4

On the last day a betrayal occurred.  Owen and Vicky decided to go running and scrambling instead -the horror of it all! Starting at Pen-y-pass they went up snowdon via crib goch back down the Snowdon ranger for a civilized lunch in Rhyd Ddu before heading back up to do Nantle Ridge and get lost in a forest.  Getting lost is adequate punishment for running on a climbing trip.

Meanwhile the rest of the group in a much more civilized manner headed to Clogwyn Cyrau for as many single pitch routes they could squeeze in in a day.  Lisa ensured she got her traverse or the world might have fallen in.

We ended the day in a pub having a meal at a reasonable time (7.15PM!) what a pleasant change!

Rob, Conor, Kyle and Lisa at Clogwyn Cyrau

 Day 5

It rained.  A lot.  We went to a café in Llanberis and went home.  The End

Sligo Scrambling Trip Report

'It's A Dangerous Business, Frodo, Going Out Your Door. You Step Onto The Road, And If You Don't Keep Your Feet, There's No Knowing Where You Might Be Swept Off To' ― J.R.R. Tolkien

By Vicky Ward and Kyle Stewart (King’s mountain Section)

Attendees: Vicky Ward, Kyle Stewart, Josh Taujanskas, Peter Adamson, Paul Kelly, Paul Grattage, Tony Holdsworth, Magdalena Oleszek and Lukasz Szadowiak

Early on Saturday morning the ominous message appeared in the group chat for the Sligo Trip: “Red sky in the morning shepherd’s warning”.  I double checked the weather forecast, and it all still seemed good, but I packed an extra pair of gloves and dug in the cupboard for my waterproof trousers.  Nothing can go wrong if you have waterproof trousers.

I met Peter and Paul at 7.30am at Paul’s house before heading on via Josh’s to get to Kyle’s to swap cars and then on to Sprucefield to decant half our passengers into the other Paul’s car.  Who doesn’t love some good car faff? Three hours later we all met up at Glencar Lough to redistribute more passengers amongst different cars to ferry onto the “community house” at the start of the King’s mountain hike. Yay more car faff.  At this stage Peter’s car count for the trip was on 4.

After peering through all the windows and weighing up the odds that this “community house” was indeed the recommended car parking spot for king’s mountain and we weren’t trespassing on a local’s driveway we headed off up the mountain. At the bottom of the steep slope we split into our two groups -one heading for Pinnacle Gully and the other King’s Gully.

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King’s Mountain

After keenly debating who would carry the 2 abseil ropes we brought and who would be peeling & chopping apples for dessert later (odd compromises) a party of Kyle, Tony, Mags, Peter, Paul K and Josh set off. After navigating parking spaces and probably not trespassing through a sheep field we left our pinnacle gully peers at the base of the mountain and attacked the grassy slope. After enduring burning calves and quads for 30 minutes (don’t skip leg day) we skirted around the top slopes of the mountain to realise we had went a little too far. Brief navigation meeting between Tony and Kyle sent the team back in the right direction to the start. We found a mini cave/gully that Kyle enthusiastically jumped into as a warm up to the main event. A few minutes later and we found ourselves at the gates of Mordor (Kings Mountain) ready to (not) destroy the one master (abseil) ring. We decided to harness and helm up at this point in preparation of depths below.

The King’s Mountain Team

Photo Credit: Peter

A massive rock crevice looking almost carved by men enshrouded us as our fellowship delved deep into the gully. After a very enjoyable scramble down some scree slopes and up some small pinnacle we came to our first abseil. After chatting to another group of walkers that found themselves in the realms of fantasy caves Tony and Kyle Sorted the ropes and secured the abseil. Tony bravely abseiled first into the abyss followed by the rest of our clan. Kyle pulled through and coiled the rope. More scrambling and around and we managed to climb out into a plateau of sunlight were we had our Elven bread and drank from our water skins. Back into the depths we travelled for a final push until we reached our final challenge and abseil. Tying the ropes together we abseiled to freedom into beautiful blue skies. Back down a steep grass slope we walked (/bum slid) back to the point our groups had separated earlier in the day. Looking back we seen (and heard *cough* vicky) the Pinnacle Gully crew making a quick run down the grassy switch back paths. 10 minutes later not trespassing though some fields, we landed back at the cars to end a beautiful adventure. 

One of the Abseils

Photo Credit: Peter

Kyle claiming this was just a hike

Photo Credit: Kyle

Pinnacle Gully

The information online for the pinnacle gully was sparse.  As was the info in the scrambling guide book.  However, the directions to head for the “phallic-shaped pinnacle” turned out to be more than sufficient. After making our way across a surprisingly flowy scree slope we reached the base of the pillar. 

I looked up at the pinnacle.  It looked steep and a bit loose but the stairway seemed obvious…it only deserved a paragraph in the guidebook and there was limited info online…it couldn’t be hard…right?  I ponderously started making my way up; I jiggled a hold, it came loose, I chucked it down safely and I repeated this process a few times.  After a few meters, I decided to down climb.  Sitting down I re-found the guidebook, “take the left gully beyond the pillar” ah that explained matters somewhat. 

I walked round the pillar and stared up – yes this looked more doable.  I started the ascent again.  There seemed to be some quite big moves for a scramble, some quite big high feet but I was not perturbed until I came to the tat.  This was clearly “bailing tat”.  I looked up either side of me – 2 steep walls with zero obvious holds.  This was in no definition of the word scrambling territory.  However, unlike the previous inhabitants of this predicament, I had no rope or gear.  This was a more precarious downclimb than I would have perhaps liked. I chucked my bag in order to aid my balance.  I mournfully watched as Paul missed the catch and it merrily bounced its way down the steep slopes below.   

One of the Incorrect Pinnacle Gully Approaches

Photo Credit: Lukasz

After Paul the hero went to retrieve my bag I decided that the only sensible thing to do now was have lunch.  Miraculously my phone had survived the descent down the rocky slope unscathed.  The same can not be said for my lunch (nor Paul’s trousers).

Undeterred we walked a little bit further round the mountain and all became obvious.  There was a delightful, friendly, interesting walkway through a cavernous gully.  Now didn’t I feel a bit silly. 

Friendly Pinnacle Gully

Photo Credit: Lukasz

Popping out the gully we then proceeded to go on a delightful hike around the plateau visiting Benbulben and King’s mountain summit while Paul’s trousers gradually became more and more ripped. The skies were clear and the views fantastic.  We found our way back to the carpark where Mags enquired whether Paul had been attacked by a bear.

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We ended the day after more car faff and a café stop in the Benwiskin Hostel.  We shared a communal meal and played some games.  For some reason the king’s mountain lot were very aggressive on whose job it was to peel apples. Great craic in all.

The next day we decided to head to Benwiskin – just a 5 minute drive from the hostel.  Kyle led the way striding up the forest path to reach the steep slopes.  The pace of the day was bold. The guidebook had put (steep) in the description.  This was justified.  We skirted the forest to reach the spectacular ridge of Benwiskin.  I’m not sure whether it would have qualified as a rock scramble but it was at least a grade 1 grass scramble in my eyes; my calves hurt.  We walked along the ridge as a group past the wonderous scenery of the cliffs of Benwiskin.  The cauldron in particular was spectacular. 

We descended the mountain via a road which was “definitely not trespassing” looking out for Diarmuid and Grainne’s cave as this was a listed optional extra for this hike.  Having reached the base of the valley again we finally caught sight of the ginormous cave above.  For some reason the steep grass slope up there didn’t seem to tempt anyone. 

Benwiskin

Photo Credit: Lukasz

We all said our emotional goodbyes in the car park before heading back to our respective homes with great car faff to be had. It was a wonderful trip. The waterproof trousers were not required.

Mournes Litter Collection

On 27th August 2022 we had a litter pick up in the Annalong Valley in the Mourne Mountains. Mournes Heritage Trust supported us with litter pickers, and staff member Aaron joined us for the walk. It was a beautiful day and we had a very relaxed, enjoyable walk whilst we helped make the Mournes a little cleaner.

Aimee, Vicky, Owen and Lisa in the Annalong Valley

Mourne Climb Fest Update

Folks,

Just another reminder of the Mourne Climbfest this weekend. We will be based at Sloan’s farm, campsite which is being setup for this event (water, toilets and barn for socialising will be provided). The campsite is located here. https://goo.gl/maps/dVoH7F7ZF5GFARVH6
On the day registration at the campsite will take place from 6pm onwards this Friday.

On the day camping will be £7. If you book in advance (before Friday 9am) you will get it for the cheaper rate of £5.

We will be climbing both Saturday and Sunday. On Saturday we will be meeting at Carricklittle carpark approx 9:30am and aiming to be at Lower Cove for about 10:30am. We’ll climb for most of the day and probably be back at the campsite for an evening of firepit socialising and giant chess from 7pm. Carricklittle car park is located here https://goo.gl/maps/gD55BRYscia9N3e27

On Sunday we will be meeting at Trassey track carpark at 9:30am (alternative is Meelmore lodge if Trassey is full). Walk in to Spellack crag and climbing from approximately 10:15am onwards.
Looking forward to seeing you there.

BCC Committee

Folks, see below for upcoming trips and save the dates. If you are interested in coming and have any questions feel free to send us an email :)

16th - 18th April - Easter trip BCC Fairhead Session

May– 29th April to 2nd May Colmcille Climbfest, Maghery, Donegal.

3rd - 6th June– Dal Riada/Mountaineering Ireland Fairhead Climbing weekend

25th and 26th June - Mourne Climb Fest

9th until the 16th July– Owey Island (accommodation still to be confirmed)

20th-21st August – BCC Muckross Trip Donegal

3rd to 5th September Burren Meet