Due to the character of the terrain above the crag and a lack of natural anchors, Pigeon Rock in the Mournes has for decades had in-situ or replaceable anchors at the top of the crag to facilitate abseiling off.
In late July, Mountaineering Ireland received a suggestion on behalf of a number of local climbers that bolted anchors should be placed at Pigeon. The placement of bolted anchors at a trad climbing crag goes against the established ethos of rock climbing in Ireland, both north and south, and also Mountaineering Ireland’s 2016 Bolting Policy. In order to facilitate an open and inclusive discussion amongst local climbers and other interested parties, Mountaineering Ireland has made arrangements for a meeting on the matter.
The discussion will be conducted as an open forum where everyone in attendance will have an opportunity to put their views forward. Mountaineering Ireland’s Bolting Policy cannot be amended at this meeting, however the opinions expressed at the meeting will inform any future review of policy in this area. Any change to Mountaineering Ireland’s Bolting Policy would also require consultation with the wider climbing community and a motion to a general meeting of Mountaineering Ireland members.
The discussion on the pros and cons of bolted anchors at Pigeon Rock, climbing ethics, liability and related matters, will take place at Tollymore National Outdoor Centre on Tuesday 2nd October at 7pm, all are welcome.
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Later Event: 5 October
Adventures in the Avellanos